Self Driving through Gonarezhou

 Gonarezhou The Place of The Elephants  

I had been dreaming of this trip for such a long time and have heard such incredible stories about Gonarezhou National Park in Zimbabwe.  Finally the time had arrived!

We set off from our home in Modimolle, Limpopo South Africa heading towards Beitbridge Border Post.  Not our favourite crossing as we have had one or two unforgettable experiences there.

To our surprise the process through South Africa into Zimbabwe was quick and easy.  It was unclear what you can or cannot take through the border what is said on the internet and what you are told are very different.  What I did find helpful was information found on the Drive Zim group on Facebook.

Important information :  Do your eVISA online (even if you are South African). Print it as you will need to show it.

Do your TIP (temporary import permit) as well online. 

Cost of using Beitbridge with a vehicle :

$28 Zimborder fee 

$9 using the bridge 

$10 Carbon Tax

$10 Road Acces

$30 insurance

If you towing the Zimborder fee is $42 

I must add that this is our third time into Zimbabwe and the police officers were incredibly friendly and waved us through the police stops with a friendly smile.

The Lion and Elephant Motel

Our First stop over for the day was at the Lion and Elephant Motel situated along the Bube River abut 80km from Beitbridge on the A4.   Lovely stop over for the night. You seem to camp outside the chalets and use their ablutions.  Very clean and tidy.  

Cost. -  $20 per person per night. 

                         

Chipinda

 The next morning we headed off to Mnandi Meats in Chiredzi.  I had placed an order a week before with Alvina.  I must add very reasonably priced and great quality!  From there we headed to Chipinda Main Camp and were met by Clem, one of the most helpful, kind and knowledgeable gentlemen.  After checkin we set off to our campsite, Chipinda 1.  All I can say is how utterly beautiful! a view to die for!!

Sitting on the banks of the Runde river was simply surreal as we watched the baby hippos playing and the fish eagle calling above us.  It's like someone hit the reset button. 

We just sat for hours taking it all in.

We were very impressed with the campsites.  You can see a lot of pride has gone into keeping them in good condition.  Bugs did a great video which I will share.

While staying at Chipinda there are many game routes one can take.  You can take a drive to the Chilojo Cliffs. That would probably be a day that you would dedicate to this trip. There is a fantastic picnic site with fire pit overlooking the cliffs.  There are also loops as well to go on.  We found a huge herd of buffalo on the C13.  The C12 is also a great loop but half way through its under construction and we then turned off onto the C13. 

FYI at Chipinda there is a resident Hyena that comes every night, so make sure you leave nothing out!

The roads are in a very good condition which is refreshing for a change. They are also well marked.  What is important to note is that on the new updated map (which you can get from Clem at reception for $5) 

If you are an avid fisherman and up for the challenge of not getting eaten by a croc or hippo you can buy a fishing permit as well from the reception.  $5 per day per person.  We bought and both Bugs and Ted caught some whoppers! 

Onward to Gorwe Pan 

We left Chipinda 7:30am and crossed the Runde river causeway.  From there you carry on for about 70km to Gorwe Pan.  It's well marked out on the map.

Gorwe Pan is very interesting.  What most don't realise is the Gorwe Pan and Gorwe Platform are not the same campsite. They are in the same vicinity though.  Gorwe Pan is a transit or wilderness campsite.  Which means no ablutions and you can basically camp anywhere on the pan.  If you book at Gorwe Pan, you have the campsite to yourself no one else can stay there while it is booked.  You have to be self-sufficient though.  Lots of drinking, washing up water.  Portable shower, spade and toilet. 

Mabalauta Campsite

After Gorwe Pan it was a short trip towards our next stop over, Mabalauta.  These campsites are beautifully placed under large trees.  Campsite 1 and 3 have the best view.  The ablutions are very clean and tidy with hot and cold water.

There are many game routes you can take. Swimuwini loop (M30) is best for buffalo.  we saw a herd of 147 plus.    There is also a river. route you can take M13, M14, M15 which is great.  For the birders we fund a lot of Marico Sunbirds there.   It's important to note that the M23, M29 is not accessible from Mabalauta side as they say they are new roads.

Muwatomba Pools is worth a visit.  It is truly breathtaking.  

FYI. Rossi Pools is also a campsite, I would recommend finding out at reception if there is anyone camping there before visiting.

                                                                                          

Makonde

Our last stop over was at rustic Makonde.  Wow!  We were the only people there.  It was pure heaven!  All sites have an undercover thatch area with an ensuite bathroom.  After site 2 is the centre area, where one can braai as well with a little bar area.  Each campsite has its own view of the Mwenezi River.  

The next day before exiting the park we took a turning to the right straight over the bridge (M30). A lovely drive and well worth it.  We did turn around opposite Rossi Pools.

We left via Malipati Gate and headed towards Manjinji Pan. 

Getting to Manjinji Pan (roughly 14km from Makonde camp)

We left Makonde went over the bridge to Malipati Gate.  From there you carry on straight for about 10 km's  and turn right towards Malipati village (your GPS will pick it up.  Tracks for Africa is accurate.  Google maps is not).  From Malapati village Manjinji is about 4.2km.  At the end of the Malapati village (where the shops are ) the is a T junction turn right and go until you get to the boom gate of Manjinji Pan.  

Manjinji Pans

Manjinji Pans is a 300 hectare protected bird sanctuary with an oxbow lake. Has over 130 bird species and some nile crocodiles.  

There are 5 campsites and I would say number 5 is the best site with a forest of Fever trees. .  We have site 1 and it's a bit small.  It just fitted two vehicles in it.  Campsites 2 to 5 are very big.  Each site is a distance apart and each have lushes green grass  as well as a tap and hosepipe in the campsite.  

Each site comes with a kitchen net that has 2 basins and a braai area.  The ablutions are really cute. 

There are many walks one can take in the forest.  For those avid birders we found early morning and about 2pm onwards you will find some awesome birds.  We found the white throated wattle eye, Wood Owl, Trumpeted Hornbill, Yellow Throated Apalis, Verreaux Eagle Owl, Retz Shrike, Holub's Golden Weaver, Greater and Lessor Honeyguide, Collared Sunbird and many more. 

Take aways from the trip

You can see a change in the way authorities deal with tourists.  We never had one unfriendly encounter.  At the police blocks, we were waved through with a smile and the local people were incredibly friendly and helpful.  When going to Chipinda it is recommended that you take the A4 then A10.  Google maps like to take you the short cut.  We were recommended to stay on the A10. 

I would highly recommend that you buy the new Gonarezhou waterproof map at Chipinda reception.  It's very well marked and accurate.  

The roads at Gonarezhou are in good condition.  There is also a lot of maintenance going on as well and again the roads are very well marked out.  There is also a distance chart on the back of the map with which Roads to take.

One thing I would like to ask those that do go camping.  Please remember camping etiquette.  We go to the bush to hear the wildlife and the quietness of it all.  Don't be loud and play music.  Don't bang your vehicle doors as loud as you can.  If you are packing up early, try and be quiet.  Most important don't make a mess in the bathroom, others have to share the ablutions as well.  Please don't litter!  Leave the campsite as you found it.  

Safe travels all!  Until next time !

Pam & Bugs